Local Lockdown Vagabondage

These last 9 months have brought us all back to exploring our own streets, backyards, and home office spaces like never before. Whilst international travel (and even inter-state travel for that matter) has been thoroughly off the cards, local exploration has made a resurgence like never before. Unperturbed by the risk of further tick bites, leeches, and drop bear attacks, I sought to venture into the wilderness of the New South Wales Central Coast.

Equipped with a backpack, wildlife lens, and hiking boots, it was time to find some waterfalls.

Something near Somersby

Even the more inland regions of national parks feature a captivating array of palms and fruit trees, and in stopping to listen they are also full of live. I’ve always found these places a deeply immersive experience.

Something near Strickland

My favourite part of this kind of day hiking over the last year is definitely the wildlife I find along the way.

It’s always in the least likely places, and on the least likely occasions that I find myself face-to-face with some of Australia’s finest.

And if i’ve learnt anything; it’s always worth going around the next corner, through the next valley, or across the next river just to see what’s there, even if that means muddy boots….

because there is still magic in this world

T Michniewicz, 22/11/20

Land of the lost tiger

In this photo essay, Land of the lost tiger, I travel to the great southern island of Tasmania with the express goal of capturing some of the unique animals and landscapes that make this one of the most breathtaking of wilderness locations. I’m undertaking this particular trip with my father, who has hiked and explored the island far more extensively than myself and who brings both insightful commentary and fresh perspectives to the entire expedition and to the photographs that arise.

Disappointingly but unsurprisingly, no Tasmanian tigers were discovered this time around.

Before touchdown in Launceston we were already off to a turbulent journey, with last second flight cancellations of connections, and anxiety-inducing baggage service delays that properly threatened to derail a significant portion of the trip. Fortunately, luck was favourable and we arrived with equipment intact at Launceston airport ready to hit the ground running and venture into some of the surrounding vegetation.

Though the small city has seen considerable growth in recent times and the sprawling expansion of residential estates from the outskirts, there is still a humble turn-of-the-century charm to the older parts of the CBD that remain dominated by Federation style houses, Victorian, and Georgian buildings.

Not far from the centre of the city is one of the most touristed nature areas and impressive geological formations of the region, the Cataract Gorge Reserve. The wandering track from the Alexandra suspension bridge all the way up to the Duck Reach power station presents some incredible views of the South Esk River that flows towards the city, accompanied by the relaxing twitter of local birdlife along its length.

Whilst limited in size and number, the nature reserves around the city can be seen to attempt to serve a dual function of wildlife space and recreational areas - used for mountain biking, running, picnics, and dog parks. In thorough endorsement of all of the above activities which get people out of the house and active in nature, from both a public health and personal interest perspective, I was somewhat disappointed to see the lack of land protected as dedicated to wildlife. Though I did spy a wallaby as it bounded along one of the tracks before disappearing into the thickets of undergrowth, changes to vegetation type and density due to human activity are apparent. Just as we don’t expect native animals to co-habit our attic spaces, sheds, and houses, I ardently believe in our moral obligation to pay it back through the provision of dedicated national parks and protected habitats.

Moving out from the undulating hills of the city to the north leads to some of the nearby wetlands and floodplains that abut the River Tamar, representing some of the only vegetation remaining in proximity given the extensive farmlands that now stretch back kilometres from its banks on either side along its length. Unsurprisingly, the fertility of the soil adjacent to the river and subsequent intensity of abutting agricultural operations means that the runoff of agrochemicals (and effluent) has significantly affected the health of the river (1) and polluted this key watersource for humans and wildlife alike.

In a more uplifting reflection of the hard work by a dedicated few, the Tamar Island Wetlands Centre presents a unique opportunity for spotting some of the iconic along with some of the more reclusive birdlife of the region. I imagine the appeal is more captivating for the casual or professional birdwatchers among us - with bird hides scattered among the timber boardwalks to ensure you achieve optimal camouflage whilst incognito.

Of all the diverse bushland, forests, woodlands, the Tasmanian landscape has its own distinct charm with an array of eucalyptus species standing tall above the lower canopy to create a dominant presence. The occasional river or stream cuts dramatically through the undergrowth, tumbling over craggy rocks with powerful momentum and creating a dynamic chorus to accompany the sights and sounds of the daily happenings on the forest floor.

Recently, dual threats to Tasmania’s wilderness have included devastating bushfires in 2016 (2) and again in summer 2019-2020 (3), along with ongoing logging operations across the state which remain as politically and emotionally charged as ever before (4,5). The sordid and unpleasant history of clearfelling, thinning, and ecosystem destruction across the state, whilst requiring a multi-part anthology in itself, suffice to say that since first colonisation has historically been one of the driving forces behind large-scale habitat, wildlife, and ecosystem loss. These challenges are ongoing in Tasmania (6,7,8) and mirror some of the same issues with species extinction on the mainland (6,9).

One of the most impressive pockets of nature which still maintains a lush density of greenery and remarkable abundance of biodiversity despite the encroachment of adjacent farmland is Lilydale falls. This highly accessible and highly touristed destination deserves mention for the inspiring cascading waterfalls alone, and feels like it represents a window in time into what much of the state’s rivers and streams may have looked like in the Gondwanaland era.

Of note, although astonished by the ubiquitous abundance of blackberry littering the landscape and in no way condoning planting or tolerance of such an introduced invasive species, it was a pretty pleasant surprise to have ready-made berries for snacking on whilst walking around.

After exploring the fragile and intricate other-worldly universe that exists within some of the underground limestone caves of the region, we ventured out to one of the dedicated wildlife conservation, research, and rehabilitation parks. The Trowunna wildlife sanctuary at Mole Creek is an example of the conservation effort to protect species currently under threat and critically endangered. With threats of habitat loss and the infectious tasmanian devil facial tumour disease, population numbers of Tassie devils in the wild have been rapidly plummeting since the mid 1990s (10). Specialised in protecting Quoll and Tassie devils, and monitoring the health of wild populations, the Trowunna sanctuary has been operating since 1979 to provide care for native animals and research ways in which we can minimise impacts on native species going into the future. In addition, the sanctuary is engaged in creating active rehabilitation programmes for injured native animals, ranging from Wedge-tailed eagles to albino magpies to potoroos.

Trowunna Wildlife Sanctuary, February 2020

Trowunna Wildlife Sanctuary, February 2020

Trowunna Wildlife Sanctuary, February 2020

What remains of the Tasmanian wilderness is now one of the last vestiges of a natural world disappearing before us with the relentless advance of anthropocentric industries. Whilst the faustian allure of exploiting natural resources to engineer the designer lifestyle and living conditions that most of the developed world is now unyieldingly accustomed to with entitled and demanding ferocity, we have been left with large swathes of anaemic, soulless, and barren desert where trees once grew. As living-generation Australians we are in a most privileged position of inheriting one of the last unspoilt realms on the earth from our Indigenous human custodians and antecedents, and the populations and animals which existed before them. Though scarred from historical missteps, the resilience of the natural world is inextinguishable if we make the collective and conscious decision to respect and protect the unfathomably diverse, infinitely exciting, and vibrant ecosystems of this great southern land. Let’s each of us work together to keep these places wild.

T Michniewicz, 04/04/2020

Never stop exploring (not yet sponsored by The North Face)

Reference

1. Gooch, D (2018) ‘Health of Tamar River takes a dip under the impact of pollutants stirred up by 2016 floods’[online]. ABC Australia. 3 August. Available at: <https://www.abc.net.au/news/2018-08-03/tamar-health-worse-after-floods/10070042> [Accessed: 04/04/2020].

2. Mathiesen, K (2016) ‘World heritage forests burn as global tragedy unfolds in Tasmania’[online]. The Guardian. 27 January. Available at: <https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2016/jan/27/world-heritage-forests-burn-as-global-tragedy-unfolds-in-tasmania> [Accessed: 04/04/2020].

3. Brown, B (2019) ‘Tasmania’s flowering giants: ‘we will never see such trees again’’[online]. The Guardian. 14 December. Available at: <https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2019/dec/15/tasmanias-flowering-giants-we-will-never-see-such-trees-again> [Accessed: 04/04/2020].

4. Coulter, E (2020) ‘Tasmania’s forest conflict has been quiet for years, but that could all be set to change in 2020’[online]. The ABC. 9 January. Available at: <https://www.abc.net.au/news/2020-01-09/tasmania-to-refocus-on-forestry-in-2020/11844326> [Accessed: 04/04/2020].

5. SBS (2020) ‘Man charged with ramming car containing anti-logging protesters in Tasmania’[online]. SBS Australia. 5 March. Available at: <https://www.sbs.com.au/news/man-charged-with-ramming-car-containing-anti-logging-protesters-in-tasmania> [Accessed: 04/04/2020].

6. Pike, F (2015) ‘Australia: world leader in deforestation and species extinction’[online]. Independent Australia. 3 June. Available at: <https://independentaustralia.net/environment/environment-display/australian-logging-and-the-end-of-species,7788> [Accessed: 04/04/2020].

7. Atwood, M (2020) ‘‘Extinction is a choice’: Margaret Atwood on Tasmania’s forests and saving the swift parrot’[online]. The Guardian. 28 February. Available at: <https://www.theguardian.com/books/2020/feb/29/extinction-is-a-choice-margaret-atwood-on-tasmanias-forests-and-saving-the-swift-parrot> [Accessed: 04/04/2020].

8. Edgar, G, Samson, C and Barrett, N (2005) ‘Species extinction in the marine environment: Tasmania as a regional example of overlooked losses in biodiversity’. Conservation Biology. 19(4):1294-1300. Available at: <https://www.jstor.org/stable/3591314> [Accessed: 04/04/2020].

9. Woinarski, J, Murphy, B, Nimmo, D, Braby, M, Legge, S and Garnett, S (2019) ‘Scientists re-counted Australia’s extinct species, and the result is devastating’[online]. The Conversation. 2 December. Available at: <https://theconversation.com/scientists-re-counted-australias-extinct-species-and-the-result-is-devastating-127611> [Accessed: 04/04/2020].

10. McGuirk, R (2009) ‘Tasmanian devils listed as endangered in Australia’[webpage]. Phys.org. 22 May. Available at: <https://phys.org/news/2009-05-tasmanian-devils-endangered-australia.html> [Accessed: 04/04/2020].

Trowunna Wildlife Sanctuary, February 2020

Everything Not Saved Will Be Lost

For this inaugural photo essay Everything Not Saved Will Be Lost (a humble namesake reference to the work of Foals (1)), I ventured into the wilderness surrounding Wellington New Zealand, where I sought to find the wildlife that makes this southern landscape so unique along with some of the native species most endangered and threatened.

Setting out, I wanted to find out more about the forces behind the loss of biodiversity and natural habitats, and how human behaviour has impacted the natural world. And although apparent that the relentless advance of urban development, agriculture, and landscape transformation has dramatically and irreversibly altered the environment in many respects, I encountered compelling examples of how a dedicated commitment to protecting the natural world may safeguard the survival of some of the continent’s most precious and unique wildlife.

Just minutes walk from the city centre lies a dense green reserve rich with the sounds of birds - Mt Victoria

After touching down in Wellington international airport and travelling into town the first thing to strike me was the abundance of significant greenspaces that exist in and around the city - the Mount Victoria reserve, the botanic gardens, and the Zealandia sanctuary.

I first set off to the hills of Mt Kaukau and the northern walkway trailhead in to explore some of the protected natural areas that remain abundant in native species today. Hiking out from Khandallah railway station on a misty morning I was overcome by the incredible density of green that surrounds the narrow winding walkway up the mountainside.

The density of plantlife is hard to convey, as the frequent rainfall that nourishes the region allows thick moss and tree ferns to thrive alongside the tall evergreens and pines that live higher up the mountainside.

The iconic Tui is one of the most important pollinators for native plants - Mt Kaukau

With an intrepid spirit and my ever faithful canon DSLR I embarked on what would prove an equally ambitious and reflective journey to the East Harbour and the Main Ridge tramping trail. The

An ecosystem in a tree, surely this is something out of Avatar - Kereru Track

An unmistakable Fantail (Piwakawaka) spreads its distinctive feathers as it briskly bounces from branch to branch in search of food. - Day’s Bay

Whilst the unfathomably lush forests of New Zealand seem expansive and unending, since the arrival of humans the amount of dense forested land has fallen from 80% to around 24% (3). The challenge is ongoing today, with threats from land clearing, agricultural practices, and invasive plant and animal species continuing to impact the survival of native species and stability of ecosystems (2).

Although tremendously demoralised by the recent tragedies of the Australian bushfires and the impacts this has had on both human health and wildlife, as well as the relentless ecocide of global treasures such as the Great Barrier Reef (4) which continues today as an unfolding tragedy of unprecedented scale, every now and then a sign of indefatigable resistance against the tide of the sixth mass extinction (5).

The Zealandia nature and wildlife sanctuary is one such inspiring example of a united conservation effort to protect some of New Zealand’s most threatened native species and ensure the continuation of a richly biodiverse habitat into the future. Located only a few minutes drive from the centre of the city, I ventured into the reserve naive to the incredible scale, sophistication, and detail paid to this monumental undertaking and to the knowledge, passion, and dedication of those who work a the reserve and contribute to its vital ongoing role in safeguarding the natural world.

The Great Fence of Karori was completed in 1999 and stretches for 8.6km around the nature sanctuary, specially designed to protect native species from predators such as rabbits, feral cats, possums, weasels, and ferrets.

By keeping out these invasive species and pests, birds such as the Cormorant are able to forage for food out at sea during the day and return to the safety of the reserve at night. In this way, the design provides a uniquely non-restrictive protected environment designed to be abundant in native plant species and food sources that most native wildlife can enter and exit as they wish.

The mighty Kaka, nationally vulnerable and recovering in its conservation status after a dedicated commitment to species protection - Zealandia

The Takahe, a large flightless bird of the wetlands with a distinctive red beak. Once thought to be extinct, the Takahe remains in a nationally critical conservation status - Zealandia Sanctuary

This Toutouwai or North Island Robin was certainly one of the most friendly and inquisitive characters I encountered on this expedition, darting among the foliage and coming right up to investigate my equipment and what my business might be venturing into the forest.

Leaving behind the electric buses, natural history museum exhibits, community garden, and national parks of Wellington I felt my grave concerns for the future of the natural world were now coloured by a flicker of hope in the idea of another possible future rich in the wonders of nature protected for generations to come. A certain reinvigoration of hope in the chance that we can still save these few unbelievably delicate corners of the natural world that give life, colour, and meaning to this grey world.

T Michniewicz, 29/02/2020

Reference

1. Wikipedia (2020) ‘Everything not saved will be lost -part 1’ [online]. Wikipedia. Available at: <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Everything_Not_Saved_Will_Be_Lost_%E2%80%93_Part_1> [Accessed: 22/02/20].

2. Warne, K and Gasteiger, A (2014) ‘The future of our forests’. New Zealand Geographic. July - August. Available at: <https://www.nzgeo.com/stories/the-future-of-our-forests/> [Accessed: 29/02/2020].

3. Department of Conservation (2020) ‘Forest habitats’[webpage]. Available at: <https://www.doc.govt.nz/nature/habitats/forests/> [Accessed: 29/02/2020].

4. James, L (2018) ‘Half of the Great Barrier Reef is dead’ [online]. National Geographic Magazine. Available at: <https://www.nationalgeographic.com/magazine/2018/08/explore-atlas-great-barrier-reef-coral-bleaching-map-climate-change/> [Accessed: 29/02/2020].

5. Saltre, F and Bradshaw, C (2019) ‘Are we in the sixth mass extinction on earth? the signs are all there’ [online]. ABC News Australia. 13 November. Available at: <https://www.abc.net.au/news/2019-11-13/what-is-a-mass-extinction-are-we-in-one-now/11699372> [Accessed: 29/02/2020].

An excellent resource for bird information can be found at: http://nzbirdsonline.org.nz/

Glow worm trails in the darkest of nights - Wellington Botanic Gardens